August 31, 2012

Vending Machine Crawl

As most of you know, I did (finally) have the baby on September 7th.  It's going to take me a little while to find time to blog about the experience (and it was an experience) so the next couple of posts are non-baby related ones that I had prepared ahead of time.  I hope to be back for real soon! 



Lately I've found myself really craving canned and bottled drinks, often ones that are carbonated.  This is pretty unusual for me because normally I drink water, fruit juice and milk.  Anyway, one evening I really wanted something carbonated but couldn't bring myself to walk to the nearest supermarket, which while convenient, has a poor selection of drinks.

And then it dawned on me (it took way too long for this realization to hit) that I'm smack in the middle of Tokyo which means there are forty-five vending machines within half a block of where I'm standing at any given moment.  Alright, maybe not forty-five, but a lot.

You may have heard about the popularity of vending machines here and how you can find some weird stuff in them.  I haven't really seen anything strange (although we both keep our eye out), just a lot of drinks, cigarettes and the occasional ice cream.  The only unusual part is how darn many there are.  All of the ones below are within half a block of our apartment.  And it's not a big block.  I hit all of these at 39 1/2 weeks pregnant with no problems---and there wasn't much I was doing at that point with no problem.  Half a block farther and I would've had this many more to choose from.


this one has Orangina, a popular French
carbonated orange drink recently imported
into Japan.  kinda like an orange Nehi, I think?

this one has "iced cocoa" which is
basically chocolate milk in a can
one of these has Sprite
don't get anything here, but it does
have Welch's grape juice

this one is the closest but doesn't have
anything I want.  lots of coffee drinks
All of the ones below are the farthest, but I go because I can get my beloved milk tea.  This is also where the beer (yes, beer) and cig machines are, which I now realize is why there is often a large group of businessmen hanging around on this corner.

note the narrow beer machine second from the left

smokes

and this fantastic picture is of my last machine
which has an interesting variety of milk tea
called "french" milk tea.  ooh la la.

my spoils (the green cans are Sprite)


August 29, 2012

The Whole Nine Months

As we're approaching the big day I wanted to slide in one more (long) post about what it's been like to be an American pregnant in Japan.  I've read a lot of other blogs, forum posts and websites about being a pregnant foreigner here (as well as ones about being pregnant in America) and want to add my experience to the mix.  The topics/issues I'll cover here are ones that seem to come up the most often from others in a similar situation.  Left to my own devices I wouldn't really know what to mention because, well, I've never been pregnant anywhere before.

First, I want to say a little more about my OB and how we found him.  When we learned I was pregnant we more or less knew, based on the experience of expats with our same company who had gone before us, that we would probably be able to make some kind of arrangements to be in Tokyo for the birth.   In this, we are extremely lucky.  From my reading, most expats (many are English teachers in smaller towns) don't have the support of a large international company who make apartments in Tokyo magically appear for two months.  They have to figure stuff out for themselves. 

We were already seeing a family doctor here in the city because, for us, a 1 hour, 45 minute train ride was worth it to see an English-speaking doctor who did things the Western way in a medical clinic (TMSC) that catered specifically to foreigners.  But we like the trains.  And we like the city.  Others wouldn't consider it worth it, I know.  Anyways, this family doctor initially confirmed the pregnancy for us and then directed us to the OB who worked in the same clinic.  The OB was nice, Japanese and spoke almost (99%) perfect English.  He also gives out epidurals like they're no big deal.  Sign me up!  I knew coming to see him for checkups every month might be difficult, but really only my very last train trip from Gunma (at about 32 weeks) was kinda rough.  Again, worth it for me. 

It was only afterwards that I learned how lucky we are to have a spot with this doctor.  Apparently it makes a big difference to have a doctor who has studied and worked extensively outside of Japan and specifically in the US.  Add to that the fact that he's Japanese (one foot in each world, so to speak) and specializes in handling foreign-baby births and, well, you've pretty much got the golden ticket.  The only complaint I've ever heard about him is that he can get busy and overbooked, which is really a good sign. However, I recently learned that his schedule has opened up some since all the foreigners left in droves after the big earthquake.  So perhaps that helped us land in his lap so easily.  For the record, I did make an actual appointment to see him every time and I always saw him in person (although he did do a bit of unexpected appointment rescheduling throughout).  Contact me for his info. if you need it.

Second, a little about the hospital.  A few months in, the subject of hospitals came up and the doctor mentioned two, one of which he said was "foreigner-friendly".  Sounded good to us.  The friendly one we're going to is Seibo International Catholic Hospital --- it's a smaller hospital somewhat known for it's maternity ward. 

I'll stop here and say that a common place to give birth in Japan is a ladies/midwife clinic.  Especially in the countryside.  These clinics may or may not have a doctor in residence, sometimes they just have one on call for emergencies.  A lot of women (American and Japanese) really like these types of clinics because they feel more comfortable than hospitals. However, I am not one of these women.  I never considered a clinic when I also had a hospital as an option (again, very lucky to be in Tokyo).  My personal idea of "comfort" is long antiseptic hallways, doctors in lab coats, machines that beep and big closets full of drugs.  As for home births, I gather they aren't that popular here which is A-OK with me because the very idea gives me the willies.  To each their own.  But I digress....

We took a tour of the hospital several months ago and I was pleasantly surprised by how easy-going the place was.  Japanese hospitals and clinics are a little notorious for having lots of rigid rules regarding labor and delivery.  While I like hospitals, I don't want to veer into prison territory.  But this hospital is (supposedly) OK with the following (some aren't):

  • bringing outside food in (and they have Western food options on their menu);
  • having dads hanging around the entire time, including during delivery;
  • letting you walk around during labor or bounce on balls, sit on weird torture birth chairs, shower etc.;
  • letting the baby "room-in";
  • letting the baby stay with you (and try to feed) for a while after delivery rather than immediately snatching him/her up and running off;
  • the aforementioned pain medication;
  • providing "lactation consultation" as well as other lessons on how to take care of baby.

So we pre-registered.  And soon we will see how the reality lives up to my expectations.  I'll definitely do an "after" post about the hospital as well.

the hospital, more photos later hopefully

Third topic: weight gain.  From all my reading I learned that Japanese doctors are infamous for harassing expectant mothers about their weight.  Rumor has it that doctors try to limit a mother's weight gain to keep the baby small and thus ensure easier deliveries for tiny Japanese ladies.  Afterwards, they fatten the baby up as quickly as possible.  I tend to believe this because it explains a phenomenon I've noticed whereby skinny, tiny-hipped Japanese women are toting around these roly-poly baby sumo wrestlers.

The recommended weight gain in America for someone with a normal BMI is around 25-35 pounds.  The recommended weight gain in Japan for someone with a normal BMI is 15-25 pounds, and sometimes even lower depending on the doctor.  I am probably not the best example for this topic since I've gained a grand total of 16 pounds and most of that was packed on in the last four months.  Which is on the lower end of even the more restrictive Japanese scale.  But I'll tell you my experience anyway.  My doctor has never once brought up weight gain of his own volition.  In the beginning I harassed him a little because I wasn't gaining any weight.  He kept telling me I was "fine".  Around the third time I brought it up he finally sighed and said "Well, to be honest it's better if you don't gain a lot of weight.  So really, you're fine.".  And after that I started to gain so I quit asking.  In general, my doctor is a pretty chill kinda guy.  I imagine I would've had to have some drastic weight gain for him to start bothering me about it.  He's asked me if I have questions at every appointment (supposedly Japanese docs don't like questions) and has humored the ones I did have in a kindly manner (although I did get the slight impression that I was being humored).

As for nutritional guidelines he gave me some U.S.-made pamphlets and asked me once if I was taking my folic acid.  That was it.  I struggled to find prenatal vitamins here (I only found one kind in a drugstore which was a tiny $15 packet that I couldn't read) and ended up just ordering American ones from Amazon.

Fourth: registering the pregnancy at city hall.  I don't know anything about all this.  No one ever told us to go register the pregnancy.  I've since heard that you can get some coupons for checkups and whatnot but I don't know about all that either.  I never received any kind of official stamped "confirmation of pregnancy" paper from the doctor either.  I did get the blue "Maternal and Child Health Handbook" (I believe the Japanese name is Boshi Techo).  This is given to all pregnant women here and is used to record all pregnancy details, baby vaccinations and other pertinent medical details until the child is six years old.  I've heard that it's so important that we may even have to present it to get the baby's passport, visa, etc. at the US embassy.  We also have to remember to get the hospital to give us a few English copies of the birth certificate for the embassy.  And we will have to go to our city hall and get the baby an alien registration card soon after she's born.  But again, that's after she's born....hopefully the fact that we didn't register the pregnancy isn't going to throw anyone for a loop.  I'll do a follow up post about that too.

Fifth: One thing that's been really neat about being pregnant here is the amount of information I've received at each prenatal checkup.  I've been kind of shocked to read about checkups in America and how nothing much happens at most of them.  Every single time I've gone in the doctor has done an ultrasound, even the first time to confirm the pregnancy (and this is all covered by our insurance as it is standard practice in Japan).  He has the machines in his office and does them himself.  At around six months he started switching it to 4D video too.  He measured heart rate every time as well as several of the baby's body parts to give me an estimate of the baby's weight.  Plus occasionally pointing out random features like stomach, kidneys, hippocampus etc.  Every single time.  I always get a printed off photo and the whole thing is put onto a CD that I keep.  It's a long CD now, going from a picture of a bean all the way to a little face looking back at us.  For the record, I also had all the standard tests one would have in the US such as glucose, group B strep etc.

And that's about it.  I think I've had a much more "Western" experience than most, largely because I was able to come to Tokyo.  No one has told me to keep my stomach warm or that I needed to eat warm foods, both of which are traditional Japanese admonitions for pregnant women.  At this point people tend to freak out a little if they see me carrying anything heavier than a water bottle, but I think that would happen in the US too.  Japanese women have been amused/slightly horrified when they learn that my husband will take a little time off work and be my main support person.  And some American women have too actually.  I'm not too worried about it but we'll see how it goes. :)

We'll also see how the blog goes from here on out.  I hope to still post regularly over the next several weeks so keep checking back---even if I have to take a few weeks off I'll be back eventually!

August 24, 2012

Basement Bites

Last week I took a walk to a very large department store that's maybe four blocks from our apartment.  If you're wondering why I'm always referencing exactly how many blocks away places are, it's because I spend a lot of my time studying area maps and calculating exactly how far I can get from this apartment without collapsing and/or giving birth on the street.  Any trip I make also has to be worth enduring everyone else on the street giving me the side-eye like I'm a bomb.

Anyways, the store I went to is Matuzakaya.  I knew that once I got there I would only be able to do so much (it's HUGE) so I decided to investigate the basement.  I have read a lot about the basements in these huge department stores and how they are a good place to shop for food.  Yep, food.  Most department store basements here in Tokyo are full of an amazing variety of food vendors.  In fact, if you are on the hunt for exotic and imported foodstuffs you'll often be told to check out the basements of different department stores.

Sure enough, the basement was packed full of  box lunches, gift baskets, pastries, ice cream, weird seafood and more.  There was a small section that was supermarket-like and had some harder-to-find spices and baking supplies but it wasn't anything I haven't seen elsewhere.   I would've considered lunch there but I couldn't find anywhere to sit---seemed like it was all takeout.  I'm not sure if that's always the case in these basements.   So I didn't get anything but I did take some very poor iPhone photos.

these are pastries made to look like
pandas, turtles, etc.  very kawaii (cute), very japanese.

a vendor displaying jellies.  jellies are big here.
there are literally too many variations for me
to even begin to describe.  just....jellies.

the entire floor is food vendors

the most perfect apple pies I've ever seen

a sushi/veggie box?  heaven only knows what half that
mess is.  I do know it would most likely give me heartburn.

exactly how many different varieties of pickled
plums are there?  this many.

onigiri (stuffed rice balls), which aren't bad,
but you have to be careful about
what they're stuffed with

This is just a small selection of what they had, I will say that it was mostly Japanese food.  So I'm not sure if, based on this experience, I personally would recommend a department store basement to a foreigner looking for foods from home.  There are enough "international" supermarkets (check this one out, but be warned it's pricey) that I don't think this would be my first suggestion.  But if you just want to marvel at some Japanese food, it's a pretty good place to do it.

August 17, 2012

Buddhism Around the Block

About a block from our apartment is a Buddhist temple called Reiun-ji.  It occurs to me that some of you might be wondering how I know it's a Buddhist temple versus a Shinto shrine.  Well, they're typically labeled as such on maps and signs but one easy way to tell is that shrines usually have torii at the entrance and temples usually do not.  So if the entrance has a torii, it's most likely (but not always) a shrine.  Temples tend to be slightly more gilded and ornate too.

This particular temple doesn't show up on all of my area maps and doesn't have much of a presence online.  I had to do some digging to find out about it.  It's not quite as happening a place as the Yushima Tenjin shrine (shown a couple of posts back).

Reiun-ji was originally built in 1691 but has been rebuilt a couple of times because of earthquakes and fire.  Apparently, it houses some scrolls and a mandala (a Buddhist painting to really oversimplify it, much more about this specific mandala at the link, second entry) that are national treasures.


the entrance from the inside, notice how there's just a somewhat ornate gate, but no torii
this indicates immediately that it's probably a temple


the temple
nobody was around, which I attribute partially
to subpar landscaping---the shrine around the
corner is a much nicer place to hang out

but it has some pretty spots

August 13, 2012

Nightlife

We've spent some time lately hanging out in Roppongi Hills, which I first blogged about here when we made a brief daytime trip.  It's in a pretty lively (and expensive) part of town with a lot of nightlife.  The Hills is basically a giant indoor/outdoor mall with shops, restaurants and even a museum or two.  The architecture of the place is impressive.  We've been going here because of the Outback Steakhouse (we never went to Outback back home, but we love it here because it tastes like America) and a movie theater where Chad has seen a couple of movies.

Last night while he was at the movies, I perused the English section of a bookstore and spent time curled up in Starbucks.  I also took some night photos of the area.


the skyline from Roppongi Hills, with a rainbowed Tokyo Tower

the Mori Tower (the blue lights continually
run up and down the side)

down Roppongi Street towards Shibuya

looking up into the various towers from within the complex

I think this is part of the Keyakizaka Complex
(this trip we ate Caribbean food way down there on
the bottom level you can barely see)

One of the coolest aspects of coming here is that if you drive (which Chad is comfortable doing now) you can leave your car in an "automated garage".  Basically you pull your car into the garage like normal, but there are just a few parking spots.  You pull your car into one, get out and then your car goes onto a conveyor belt into an elevator and is stored way back in the bowels of the garage until you come back and check it out.  We are big dorks fascinated by this.  We even took video but this is my first attempt at video editing so it's kinda rough.  And you may not be able to play it from an iPad or phone.  I'm sure there's a reason why but I don't know anything about computers anymore. ;)

August 11, 2012

My Favorite Shrine

About two blocks from our apartment is a rather large Shinto shrine with which I was completely unfamiliar.  So a few days ago I walked down there to check it out.  To my surprise, the English sign inside said that it was a shrine to....wait for it.......literature.  On top of that it's adorable with random bull statues and a little river with a bridge and benches in shady spots.

The shrine has a couple of names but "Yushima Tenman-gÅ«" seems to be the most correct.  The sign inside doesn't tell the whole story---apparently its history goes back to 458 AD when it was built to house a spirit of sports and strength.  Much later in the 1300's it was expanded to also house Tenjin, the spirit of learning. So the spirit of sports and the spirit of learning are roomies, ironically enough.

The current buildings seem to be pretty recent and from what I read the shrine is most famous now for its plum (which are sometimes called Japanese apricots) trees.  There's even a small plum tree festival in late winter.  And nowadays students come to the shrine before their exams to pray for good scores---it's convenient because we're really close to Tokyo University.  In fact I gather that this area has always been known for schools, universities, libraries etc.

entrance

sign (click to enlarge)

wood buildings

I liked the lamps


the river

a shrine maiden or "miko" walking through. 
I also saw people who were clearly on their lunch breaks

I'm gonna hit these stairs when I want to start labor

I have no idea what the bull's for

August 10, 2012

Birthin' Babies 101

Shortly after we moved we scheduled a private childbirth class (private only because I waited too long and there weren't any group classes available in August).  My doctor recommended the lady who taught it as she is an American who has worked as a labor and delivery nurse in Japan for thirty years.  She was also familiar with my doctor and my hospital (although she had never worked there) so she could answer pretty specific questions. I mainly wanted to hear how things go down in a Japanese hospital versus an American one. I've read a ton, but 90% of it is from an American-in-America perspective.

I wanted to include some of the highlights here as I have obsessively read every foreigner-giving-birth-in-Japan story on the Internet. There aren't too many so I want to contribute to some of the existing reference websites. If you aren't interested in reading about childbirth....well, sorry, but you're gonna want to skip some posts in the next coupla months.

Some of the highlights:

1. She convinced me to write down a few of my preferences and quirks (such as the fact that needles can make me pass out) in a "birth plan".  Prior to that my only "plan" was to get this baby out healthy as quickly and easily as possible.   Period. I refuse to be the lady who shows up with ten pages of detailed instructions including a song playlist.  It's just not my style.  That said, she convinced me pretty easily when she explained that while some of the L&D nurses will speak good English, they will all be able to read it well.   Which makes sense, as I can read Japanese (kana only) much easier than I can speak it.   She even gave me a form to fill out, one page, and suggested just bullet points. It's a reasonable compromise, I think.

2. She said that Japanese nurses are more likely to wait for you to ask them for help, rather than assuming you want them in your face the whole time.  And by "help" I mean if you just want them to sit and hold your hand and listen to you moan and wail.   She said they're perfectly happy to do it but they'll wait for you to ask.   I like this, as I tend to not like people in my face--even in times of distress--but we'll see.

3. She warned me that the third day after the birth would be rough for a variety of different reasons, one being that the pediatrician will show up and start obsessing over the baby's weight. I may have to negotiate with him/her to keep from giving baby sugar water or formula, which I would prefer not to do. She said the nurses shouldn't bother me, just the pediatrician. The nurses will help me, but again, I'll need to ask. I hear this kind of thing happens in US hospitals too sometimes.

4. That said, she also gave me some good information on Japanese formula and English instructions on how to make it. Which is awesome, because I had no clue and was just going to beg a lesson at the hospital. You know, just in case.

5. One thing I could find almost no information on is what supplies a Japanese hospital provides (for both the baby and for my recovery afterwards).   I was pleased to learn that it's pretty much in line with what a US hospital provides.   And everything on her what-to-bring list was the same as what you would be told to bring to a US hospital.   (The hospital had provided me with a very short list of what to bring but it was nice to have her verify and add to it.)

6. Apparently in Japanese hospitals you can eat and drink straight through labor. They just ask that you avoid fiber.

7. They'll dunk baby in the water for a bath before the umbilical cord falls off. It's the Japanese way and she swore it would make it heal faster.

8. She confirmed yet again that pain medication is rare here (Japanese women pride themselves on stoicism during labor pains) so for the love of heaven, if you're thinking about giving birth in Japan and want drugs make sure your OB and clinic/hospital have them and will give them to you.   This should be your first question, and then check back frequently to make sure the answer hasn't changed. For the record, my "birth plan" is going to say "I'll take whatever you've got."

Past that we did all the breathing exercises and "labor positions" that you see in the movies and called it a day.   This all took several hours, just so you know. If anyone out there wants the contact info for the instructor, email me.

August 8, 2012

City Slicker

This weekend we moved to our apartment in the city. As I mentioned awhile back, we'll be here for two months so I'm close to the hospital and my doctor. Chad is driving back and forth from Gunma which, so far, is going pretty well.

We didn't get a ton of information about our apartment (it was arranged for us by the company) until just before we came because, well, that's just how they roll.  But I'm pleased to report that they came through for us again....the apartment is in a great location (just south of Ueno Park which I first mentioned here) and is very nice. 


apartment building
apartment

our view

As you can see it's small (one bedroom) but suits us just fine.  The bathroom and bathtub are surprisingly large and Western-style, most of my appliances are in English, it's easy to cool and it comes with two nice Japanese ladies to clean it twice a week.  So far the only con is that it's on a hill.  And as great as the location is, I'm not going to be able to take as much advantage of it as I would under normal circumstances.  Normally I would be down in Ueno Park every day but since I currently have the mobility of a large arthritic duck, I'm not sure I can make it that far (probably less than two miles but the park is huge).

street right in front of apartment

down a very steep hill

nearby elementary school (surrounded by trees)

another neighborhood street

down the other side of the hill to the local grocery

The only other thing of note is that it's been a little hard to figure out where to get food, considering we limit ourselves by eating very little Asian food.  So far we've mastered pizza and burger delivery and we have our eye on a couple of local restaurants where hopefully we won't wind up with a plate full of sea urchin.  And then there's groceries.  Tiny little local city supermarkets/bakeries/butchers are a little hard for a country girl to wrap her mind around.   Although again, I wouldn't be nearly as concerned about figuring it out if I were able to explore more.  On Monday I had a disastrous experience trying to find what I thought was a large international supermarket on the other side of the city.  Long story short, it was tiny and didn't deliver.  But with Chad's help I finally located a small but adequate supermarket about two blocks from us and I'm currently waiting to see if a delivery boy actually brings the groceries I bought this morning to my door this afternoon.  Fingers crossed.  And then I get to try to make dinner in my tiny little city-folk-don't-cook kitchen.

the grocery store....it ain't Wal-mart

And one last thing....we didn't bring our full computer setup with us so blogging is a little more difficult.  So if things get a little rough around the edges for the next coupla months, that's why. ;)

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