December 21, 2012

Happy Christmas, Japan-Style!

Some of you know that as you read this, we are back in the US celebrating Christmas with family.  I scheduled this post to go out back in early November because that's when the Christmas catalogs started appearing.  No, I don't mean toy catalogs.  I'm referring to the catalogs that supermarkets and convenience stores put out with all the food you can order for the holidays.  I didn't do this post last year because I wanted to wait until we actually had some experience with ordering the holiday food, but at the rate we're going we'll never actually be here at Christmas.  So here it is.

You may have heard about how Japanese people go to Kentucky Fried Chicken for their Christmas dinner.  It's true, many years ago KFC was the closest you could get to an American holiday-type meal here and the KFC advertisers took diabolical advantage of it by convincing the Japanese that everyone in the US eats restaurant fried chicken at Christmas.  And since Christmas is only celebrated as a fun, secular, western holiday here, they believed it.   So as it nears Christmas you'll see a sign-up sheet outside KFC where people sign up for their holiday meal.  When you try to explain to a Japanese person the reality of turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce they just get kinda confused.  As far as I can tell turkey isn't a very popular meat here although you can find a few Butterballs at Costco and you can order them online through the Foreign Buyer's Club.

last year's KFC sign-up sheet and advertising

The other food you have to have at Christmas is cake.  Most supermarkets and bakeries do a booming business selling elaborate cakes that you pre-order and then pick up at Christmas.  They have catalogs that you can get in November with all the cake options listed. 

By far the most fun is the 7-Eleven catalog.  Now, this seems like a pretty ghetto place to get your Christmas food, but I'm not sure if that holds true for the Japanese people.  It does seem like more people go to the supermarket and do their ordering, based on the crowds.  Anyway, we always pick up a 7-11 catalog for sheer entertainment value.

I particularly like this year's catalog cover because it depicts a little scene of Christmas houses.  Notice that the houses are western (including a church), the little people are Japanese, there are dudes running across the roofs and a half-dressed lady is hanging out an upper window.    And, of course, a 7-11 is prominently featured.



The hugely famous pop group AKB48 is prominently featured in the 7-11 catalogs. 


I particularly like their exclamations over the chocolate fountain. (BTW, wouldn't a chocolate fountain be awesome at Christmas dinner?  Who needs pie?)


Here's your roast chicken, sandwich tray and wine options....


 And your cake, which can run anywhere from $20 - $70.  I'm not sure how much the cakes are at supermarkets and bakeries but I'm betting they're more.



So if you're sitting around with your family over the holidays, trying to figure out what to eat, pretend you're in Japan and get some KFC and cake! :)  Happy Holidays!!

November 20, 2012

Back In The USA

We're back in the US for 7 weeks over the holidays so I'll be on break from blogging. Look for a pre-planned post around Christmas and check back after the New Year for more Japanese adventures.

Meanwhile, things I have to say about being back in America.....

  1. American supermarkets are awesome. A.W.E.S.O.M.E. I could spend hours just walking around enjoying looking at all the wonderful food options. And no slabs of whole octopus stinkin' up the joint.
  2. Americans are loud. (Or maybe it's just New Jersey, ha!)
  3. It's really hard to remember to say "Excuse me." instead of "Sumimasen.".
  4. Did I mention that American food is awesome? Pizza, wings, steak sandwiches....I eat so much more healthy in Japan.
  5. I miss our heated toilet seats. :D
Happy Thanksgiving!!

November 9, 2012

Tiny Traveler in Tokyo

A couple of weeks ago I had to take Cora to get her first round of vaccinations at the clinic in Tokyo (we have to go there to get her the "American" vaccines on the "American" schedule---the Japanese versions are different and not in a good way).  I was a little worried about taking a small baby by myself on the trains and subways for a two hour trip.   So I did what I usually do and scoured the Internet for tips on taking a baby through Tokyo's public transportation.   And whenever I look up something on the Internet I try to do a blog about it so that the next person looking it up gets another hit. :)

So first...the train trip.  It's a one hour express train trip into the city.  I wasn't too worried about this part because the seats are reserved and private enough to feed her.  I also bought two seats this time just for my peace of mind.  Let me stop right here and say that for the purposes of this post you can assume I'm feeding her with a bottle.  I don't want to get into breast-feeding etiquette....if anyone reading this wants to know my thoughts on breast-feeding in public here you can email me.

There is one larger restroom on the train with a changing table---it's not the ideal place to change a baby (a little grimy plus the motion of the train) but it would work if we were desperate. So I knew that if she started yelling I could probably calm her down. Unfortunately while we were waiting on the train (we got there too early) she got upset by the autumn wind whipping through the station (this happens in a lot of stations).  I would recommend dressing a baby really warmly if you're going to be spending some time on a train platform in autumn.

My biggest dilemma was whether to take the sling carrier or the stroller or both. A lot of my online research was on using a stroller in the subways.   I found differing opinions---some reviewers thought Tokyo was easy with a stroller (or a wheelchair for that matter) and some didn't.   I can see how it might be easier than old European cities.   But, to a person who only became accustomed to public transportation in a huge city recently, navigating Tokyo's subways alone with a big stroller would be a huge pain. 

Subway/train stations are labyrinthine with lots of stairs and they may or may not have elevators.  If one does have an elevator, good luck finding it.  Some spots don't even have escalators and technically you're not supposed to take a stroller on an escalator although I've seen people doing it (and would try it myself ).  For example, our little local train station has a lot of stairs and no other options.  So taking a stroller to it while alone would not be a good idea.  If there were two people to carry it up stairs, or if you have an older child who can use a small foldable umbrella stroller, it would be doable.  I've read rumors online of subway maps that indicate which stations are fully handicap accessible but I haven't found a link that works yet. 

So I went with just the sling carrier.  It worked out OK, but was hard on my back.  I managed to keep her asleep the whole trip.  While I was on the subway she would get scrunched if I tried to sit down and would start to wake up.  I was a little nervous about her crying on the subway because we would've been stuck with me not able to do much (except the pacifier, which is a must-have).  Even if we were to get off at a stop for a take-care-of-baby break there isn't really anywhere in the subways to go.  Some station restrooms have a changing table but that's it.  You may not even find that.  The station restroom I always stop at on the way (in Ningyocho) is little more than two holes in the ground and a sink.  There isn't even soap, much less a changing table. 

This trip I made it to the clinic (which has a baby room) without having to tend to her too much.  I did find this link to a great list of baby-friendly places and baby rooms in the city, but none are in subways.  And they aren't all conveniently located.

So for the next round of vaccines we're going to go on a Saturday with Chad in the car.  That's not to say I won't try taking her into the city by myself again.  Just maybe when she's a little older.  And not when we have to keep an appointment so I can take the stroller and have time to find elevators in the subway stations.  I'll let you all know how it goes.  :)

October 31, 2012

Hokora

 
Here's another photo collection I've started....hokora.  Hokora are tiny "household"  or roadside Shinto shrines that people have in their yards.  They enshrine minor spirits.  They're cute and make me think of fairy houses.  All of these are in the neighborhoods around my house.....hopefully I'll keep finding more and continue this as a series.
 
 
this one is inset into someone's perimeter
wall.....kinda unusual

this one really looks like a fairy house

wonder if the spirit likes to be exposed in the
sun like this? and on cement blocks?

October 21, 2012

Water Gardens

One of the things I enjoy about Japan are the water gardens you see everywhere.  This post may be the first in a series of them, as I've started taking photos of all the ones I see.  The ones below were all on the streets around our apartment in Tokyo.

I really want to grow one myself, but I have a feeling all I would end up with is dead plants and mosquitos.  ;)




this one was in front of a little shop

this one is in a lovely styrofoam cooler-type thing....

....but if you look close, it has goldfish in it.

this one was in front of a medical supply company.
 it also has goldfish in it, which I saw at a
later point when it was pruned.

October 12, 2012

Surprise Guest

Two days ago my doorbell rang just as I was laying down for a nap.  I thought it might be a package delivery (that's usually who rings the doorbell during the day) so I went and opened the door.

Immediately, I regretted it.  It was a lady rattling off very fast Japanese and indicating that she wanted to talk to me and come in my house.  She said something about the baby and had paperwork with our information on it so I inferred that she was from city hall and had questions regarding our registration of Cora.  So I let her in.

She proceeded to ask me a bunch of questions about Cora and her delivery, only some of which I could make out and answer.  She wanted to see my Maternal/Child Health Handbook (Boshi Techo) which I provided.  I then proceeded to watch while she copied information from it.  I started to worry that I was way off base and that she and I were having two different conversations.  I also started to worry that she was a salesperson.

So I stopped her and called the company representative who helps us and translates for us and asked her to talk to the lady and interpret for me.  Lo and behold, I was correct----she was from city hall and was basically doing a well-baby check and making sure I knew about local pediatricians and vaccinations.  And for the record, she seemed to think our conversation was going well and she understood me. Before we hung up I asked the company rep if the lady would need to see Cora, knowing that Cora was peacefully swaddled in her crib and having her morning nap (at least someone was).  She said no.

Of course, as soon as I hung up, the lady asked to see the baby.  So I headed up the stairs and midway realized that the lady might not know what to make of the swaddling.  They didn't swaddle at the hospital and I had to order (and receive as gifts from the US) my velcro swaddling blankets and sacks because they don't have them here.  Swaddling can look a little bit like child abuse if you do it right and aren't used to it.  (It works though, when you have a baby who flails and stretches a lot.)   When she saw Cora, the lady looked a little surprised and immediately started jabbering and gesturing....I still don't know if she understood or was berating me for binding my child.  I unwrapped Cora (who started screaming--I was really pleased by this point) and let the lady see her and inspect her belly button (healed for weeks now).   Fortunately, she seemed to let it go and Japanese DSS hasn't come, so I guess the swaddling was OK.

Then she looked around my (thankfully clean) house---I believe it was to see that I had adequate space and bathrooms and things for the baby.  She commented specifically on the two bathrooms and went in my living room and looked at the photos I have displayed of our families.  She commented on the photos with grandmas in them specifically---I think she was glad to see that we had family somewhere, if not in Japan.  Shortly thereafter, she left.

A few times when I had Cora out in her stroller or sling in Tokyo ladies would comment on her being outside so soon (at two weeks old).  As a rule Japanese mothers don't take babies out until they're a month old.  The checkout lady at my local convenience store here (I take Cora in the stroller to get milk and bread almost every other day) has asked me if it was OK to have her out walking.  So this city hall lady was just about one too many people questioning me (plus I missed my nap :( ).  While I suppose it's good to have people check on us, I really wish someone had warned me that this lady would come to my house.  Anyone who might be reading this in preparation for having a baby in Japan be forewarned!                                   


October 7, 2012

Featuring....

My blog is currently being featured at the InterNations expat website...go here to read my interview.

October 2, 2012

Random Stuff

I had a post planned about all the girl's bars that were down on the main street near our apartment.  I had photos and everything....but somehow they got deleted in all the baby excitement.  Girl's bars, so you know, are not strip clubs but more of a Hooter's type situation.  Maybe a cross between the two.  Scantily-clad girls are paid to entertain men.  But not "entertain" men, if you catch my drift.  Supposedly, anyway.....it depends on what you read about them.  I read an article recently about how law enforcement is cracking down on them (to make sure they're on the up and up) so as to "clean up" Tokyo for the 2020 Olympic bid.  Which implies that some "entertaining" does go on.  Anyway, there were a bajillion of them down the hill....and as far as I know it wasn't an area known for them.  My photos were just of the signs, particularly the ones that say "girl's bar".  Hopefully I'll revisit the topic one day....for now just amuse yourself with the mental picture of a hugely pregnant girl taking careful photos of pseudo-strip clubs.

We moved back to Ota this weekend and are having to re-adjust (mostly to not having cleaning ladies).  For now, I can only blog on my iPad.  Mainly because there's always a baby in my lap.  The only catch with the iPad is that I can't add photos.

I miss the garbage disposal in that apartment.  They aren't popular here at all.  Chad tried to get one installed for me here as a "thanks for having my baby" present (it's what I requested when asked---I wanted it way more than jewelry etc.) but he learned that it would be over $4000 (not a typo) and we would have to have it uninstalled when we leave.  So I might get jewelry after all, because I'm not getting a disposal.  :(  Japanese people are really not into creature comforts in their homes....

September 18, 2012

Baby Makes Three: Tokyo Birth Story

So....little Cora-chan ("chan" is the Japanese diminutive for baby girls) is finally here!  I suppose I should first tell the "birth story" and then I'll get into some of what I experienced giving birth in a Japanese hospital.  Please be warned that I tried not to be too graphic, but it's hard when you're talking about childbirth....it's a graphic process.  ;)

On the morning of the 6th, I woke up having contractions.  I assumed it was false labor (I was pretty cynical about all of my pains by that point) but Chad was watching me and determined that he was not going to go to work.  Two and a half hours later, when they hadn't gone away and were still every 5 minutes, I called my doctor's cell phone.  He didn't answer.  I ended up calling the clinic we go to to see if they could locate him---turns out he was in a delivery.  I described my pains to one of the nurses there, who consulted with another doctor and told me to go to the hospital.

When we arrived at the hospital, I fully expected to be sent home.  But they admitted me, and labor started for real pretty quickly.  The doctor finally called me back and said that he would be there by 4pm and that I would probably have the baby by midnight.  By 4pm he still wasn't there (and he was the one who did the epidural) and I was in some pretty major, almost-ready-to-push pain (8-9 centimeters).  Chad had been fanning me and forcing jello and water down my throat (so you can eat and drink during labor here) for several hours by this point.  The doctor had authorized the nurses to give me some muscle relaxers too.  If you've ever heard labor contractions described as "toe-curling", know that that is a very accurate description.  And speaking of, there were other women there in labor as well and most, of course, were Japanese.  For the record, this business about Japanese women being stoic and quiet during labor is nonsense....I can assure you that they screech and moan just like the rest of us.  I do think that most of them were going without the epidural intentionally though.

About 6pm the doctor finally showed up and I begged him for the epidural, even knowing that I was really close to pushing.  I will always wonder if I could've just done it without (and had the bragging rights :D) but at that point I just wanted some relief.  He inserted it, and while it did help, it didn't help quite as much as I thought---I'm a little disappointed in the epidural.  Things slowed down some which gave me the chance to rest a little before pushing. 

When it came time to push I was still pretty tired but gave it all I had---her head still had to be vacuum extracted because she got stuck.  After that she came pretty quickly.  That part was pretty amazing.  Suddenly....there's a baby!

Unfortunately things went downhill from there.  I spiked a 103 temperature and had been sick during labor and my blood pressure dropped.  The placenta didn't want to come out either and had to be forcibly removed.  I held her for a little bit and then they took me to recovery and Cora to the nursery.  I continued to be sick and when they tried to get me up at one point I passed out (I don't remember this--Chad and I pretty much had to go back through this entire process because I totally blocked some parts out).  I think I was having a hard time coming down off the drugs but who knows.  The doctor said it was a pretty "smooth" and "typical" labor all in all......I gotta say, that was a little much to take from a dude who was two hours late with my drugs.  But he got Cora out in perfect shape and got me through it, if not in exactly perfect shape.... Chad and I were both a little traumatized and at this point I can't quite bring myself to think of doing it again anytime soon. :(

Edit: The whole shebang was 21 hours long and she was born around 2am.

So from here, some specifics about the hospital experience here:

Nurses & Staff: The poor nurses who took care of me immediately after labor were great.  While I was in labor they didn't do too much but a few of them rubbed my lower back.  After labor they didn't want to bring Cora to me until they determined that I wasn't really ill with something she could catch but they did bring her to me to feed at one point for a little while. They helped me get to the bathroom numerous times and dealt with my sickness and passing out.  Overall, the English was good, but the longer I was there the more the constant little bit of lost-in-translationness started to really wear on me.  And when I eventually got well enough to go to my room in the recovery ward, I started to have even more trouble with the nurses, but that is in the section on feeding below.

Paperwork: While we were in the recovery room I had to track Cora's diapers and feeding, certain aspects of my recovery and every time I took pain pills.  I had about four different forms that I had to keep up with.  I'm not sure if you have to do this in an American hospital too?  Please comment and let me know if this is standard practice.  By the time I got discharged, I was pretty sick of writing all this stuff down constantly.

Outfit: Another annoyance was the enormous outfit they insisted on dressing her in while we were there.  She wasn't swaddled but instead was dressed in what I called the "flying Elvis getup".  Everytime I tried to take her out of part of it they would come get her for a weighing or a check and she would end up right back in it.  I was ready to burn it by the time we left.

viva Las Vegas...there are little arms thrown up somewhere in there


Breast-Feeding:  I wanted to attempt exclusively breast-feeding so I had requested (and written on my birth plan) that she not be given formula or sugar water at all.  So, as happens, she lost some weight the first few days.  She ended up losing a little more than the 10% that is considered acceptable and the nurses started kinda harassing me about supplementing with formula.  I ended up getting kinda peeved about it (they were treating me like I was an idiot plus the communication between myself and the nurses suffered because of the language barrier) but I stood my ground.  At one point I even contemplated calling up the La Leche League and inciting a turf war (there's a sentence I never thought I'd write).  I ended up cutting a deal with a nurse to the effect of "if she doesn't start gaining by <this time> we'll supplement".  Fortunately, the milk showed up and I managed (over a pretty sleepless night) to get her gaining weight.  In retrospect, I understand a little better where they were coming from.  I'm glad I stood my ground but I also realize a little better exactly how close I was cutting it.  Feeding is going well now, and we bought a scale to monitor her growth which is good so far.

Room & Food: I had a private room and shower which were great.  I even had a view of the SkyTree.  And the Western-style meals were shockingly good.  There was a good bit of fish, but it was always Western-style broiled or baked salmon, tilapia etc.  No funny business.  For lunch and dinner there was always fruit, a soup, bread, cookies, salad, tea (with milk) and a main dish meat and vegetables.

room

view, but you can't really see the Skytree in this shot...
the blinds wouldn't come up

lunch
the common room

halls
Bathing: The nurses did give Cora a bath on day four and dunked her right in the water.  Chad and I got to see demonstration of another baby being bathed the day before that.  Her umbilical cord fell off during the bath and I'm still nervously watching it heal.  If I had my druthers, I would probably choose the American way of waiting until it heals to dunk the baby.

Free Supplies: I didn't get as much stuff as I had imagined.  No sprays or creams or bottles or medicinals of any kind for my healing other than pain pills.  Which are good, but some other options might have been nice.  None of the famous mesh underwear I've heard about either.    Diapers, wipes, Q-tips and alcohol (for the belly button) were provided for Cora while we were there.  And the awful outfit mentioned above.

Midwife: I signed up for my doctor's midwife service---we've had one home visit so far and it went great.  I really like the midwife---she checked me and Cora and declared us both fit.  She weighed Cora and confirmed that she is gaining on track.  She was very calming and helped me make my feeding schedule a little more manageable.  Her English is fantastic too.

So that's it!   I would love to hear what women who have given birth in America find odd or unusual about my experience! 

September 16, 2012

(Not So) Freshness

Here's another post in my completely unintentional ongoing series about Japanese hamburgers.  Not far from our apartment is a Freshness Burger outpost.  Freshness Burger (known sometimes as just "Freshness") is a chain (I don't think there are any near us in Ota) that claims to serve hamburgers using only fresh and organic ingredients.  They are well known for having veggie burgers but I believe you can also get burgers made of fish, chicken and.....Spam.  Also on the menu are hotdogs, fries, a few desserts options etc.  They don't serve the typical fountain drinks but instead have a selection of smoothies, juices and natural sodas.

Of course, we tried it out.  The first time I had a hotdog, which was disappointingly--but not surprisingly--a typical sausage-y Japanese hotdog.  Edible, but sad and not right.

And then I went back alone the other day and tried a classic burger.  At the risk of having the company come after me for slander, I am skeptical about their use of "real Australian beef".  It tasted like tofu or soy-ick or cardboard or anything but real beef.  And to make it worse, whatever it was had possibly been mixed with ground onion.  I hate onions. 

Now, this is just my opinion---Chad had a burger and just said it "wasn't that good".  Which is a far cry from my "absolutely disgusting".  And usually he is much more discerning about fast food than I am.  So by all means go and try a Freshness Burger if you're ever in Asia.  And let me know how that works out for ya.  I do recommend that you check out the smoothies and juices as they are pretty good.

just keep walking to Wendy's

inside

you can get a fruit burger which is a burger
with a slice of mango on it....you know, if
you're crazy like that


August 31, 2012

Vending Machine Crawl

As most of you know, I did (finally) have the baby on September 7th.  It's going to take me a little while to find time to blog about the experience (and it was an experience) so the next couple of posts are non-baby related ones that I had prepared ahead of time.  I hope to be back for real soon! 



Lately I've found myself really craving canned and bottled drinks, often ones that are carbonated.  This is pretty unusual for me because normally I drink water, fruit juice and milk.  Anyway, one evening I really wanted something carbonated but couldn't bring myself to walk to the nearest supermarket, which while convenient, has a poor selection of drinks.

And then it dawned on me (it took way too long for this realization to hit) that I'm smack in the middle of Tokyo which means there are forty-five vending machines within half a block of where I'm standing at any given moment.  Alright, maybe not forty-five, but a lot.

You may have heard about the popularity of vending machines here and how you can find some weird stuff in them.  I haven't really seen anything strange (although we both keep our eye out), just a lot of drinks, cigarettes and the occasional ice cream.  The only unusual part is how darn many there are.  All of the ones below are within half a block of our apartment.  And it's not a big block.  I hit all of these at 39 1/2 weeks pregnant with no problems---and there wasn't much I was doing at that point with no problem.  Half a block farther and I would've had this many more to choose from.


this one has Orangina, a popular French
carbonated orange drink recently imported
into Japan.  kinda like an orange Nehi, I think?

this one has "iced cocoa" which is
basically chocolate milk in a can
one of these has Sprite
don't get anything here, but it does
have Welch's grape juice

this one is the closest but doesn't have
anything I want.  lots of coffee drinks
All of the ones below are the farthest, but I go because I can get my beloved milk tea.  This is also where the beer (yes, beer) and cig machines are, which I now realize is why there is often a large group of businessmen hanging around on this corner.

note the narrow beer machine second from the left

smokes

and this fantastic picture is of my last machine
which has an interesting variety of milk tea
called "french" milk tea.  ooh la la.

my spoils (the green cans are Sprite)


August 29, 2012

The Whole Nine Months

As we're approaching the big day I wanted to slide in one more (long) post about what it's been like to be an American pregnant in Japan.  I've read a lot of other blogs, forum posts and websites about being a pregnant foreigner here (as well as ones about being pregnant in America) and want to add my experience to the mix.  The topics/issues I'll cover here are ones that seem to come up the most often from others in a similar situation.  Left to my own devices I wouldn't really know what to mention because, well, I've never been pregnant anywhere before.

First, I want to say a little more about my OB and how we found him.  When we learned I was pregnant we more or less knew, based on the experience of expats with our same company who had gone before us, that we would probably be able to make some kind of arrangements to be in Tokyo for the birth.   In this, we are extremely lucky.  From my reading, most expats (many are English teachers in smaller towns) don't have the support of a large international company who make apartments in Tokyo magically appear for two months.  They have to figure stuff out for themselves. 

We were already seeing a family doctor here in the city because, for us, a 1 hour, 45 minute train ride was worth it to see an English-speaking doctor who did things the Western way in a medical clinic (TMSC) that catered specifically to foreigners.  But we like the trains.  And we like the city.  Others wouldn't consider it worth it, I know.  Anyways, this family doctor initially confirmed the pregnancy for us and then directed us to the OB who worked in the same clinic.  The OB was nice, Japanese and spoke almost (99%) perfect English.  He also gives out epidurals like they're no big deal.  Sign me up!  I knew coming to see him for checkups every month might be difficult, but really only my very last train trip from Gunma (at about 32 weeks) was kinda rough.  Again, worth it for me. 

It was only afterwards that I learned how lucky we are to have a spot with this doctor.  Apparently it makes a big difference to have a doctor who has studied and worked extensively outside of Japan and specifically in the US.  Add to that the fact that he's Japanese (one foot in each world, so to speak) and specializes in handling foreign-baby births and, well, you've pretty much got the golden ticket.  The only complaint I've ever heard about him is that he can get busy and overbooked, which is really a good sign. However, I recently learned that his schedule has opened up some since all the foreigners left in droves after the big earthquake.  So perhaps that helped us land in his lap so easily.  For the record, I did make an actual appointment to see him every time and I always saw him in person (although he did do a bit of unexpected appointment rescheduling throughout).  Contact me for his info. if you need it.

Second, a little about the hospital.  A few months in, the subject of hospitals came up and the doctor mentioned two, one of which he said was "foreigner-friendly".  Sounded good to us.  The friendly one we're going to is Seibo International Catholic Hospital --- it's a smaller hospital somewhat known for it's maternity ward. 

I'll stop here and say that a common place to give birth in Japan is a ladies/midwife clinic.  Especially in the countryside.  These clinics may or may not have a doctor in residence, sometimes they just have one on call for emergencies.  A lot of women (American and Japanese) really like these types of clinics because they feel more comfortable than hospitals. However, I am not one of these women.  I never considered a clinic when I also had a hospital as an option (again, very lucky to be in Tokyo).  My personal idea of "comfort" is long antiseptic hallways, doctors in lab coats, machines that beep and big closets full of drugs.  As for home births, I gather they aren't that popular here which is A-OK with me because the very idea gives me the willies.  To each their own.  But I digress....

We took a tour of the hospital several months ago and I was pleasantly surprised by how easy-going the place was.  Japanese hospitals and clinics are a little notorious for having lots of rigid rules regarding labor and delivery.  While I like hospitals, I don't want to veer into prison territory.  But this hospital is (supposedly) OK with the following (some aren't):

  • bringing outside food in (and they have Western food options on their menu);
  • having dads hanging around the entire time, including during delivery;
  • letting you walk around during labor or bounce on balls, sit on weird torture birth chairs, shower etc.;
  • letting the baby "room-in";
  • letting the baby stay with you (and try to feed) for a while after delivery rather than immediately snatching him/her up and running off;
  • the aforementioned pain medication;
  • providing "lactation consultation" as well as other lessons on how to take care of baby.

So we pre-registered.  And soon we will see how the reality lives up to my expectations.  I'll definitely do an "after" post about the hospital as well.

the hospital, more photos later hopefully

Third topic: weight gain.  From all my reading I learned that Japanese doctors are infamous for harassing expectant mothers about their weight.  Rumor has it that doctors try to limit a mother's weight gain to keep the baby small and thus ensure easier deliveries for tiny Japanese ladies.  Afterwards, they fatten the baby up as quickly as possible.  I tend to believe this because it explains a phenomenon I've noticed whereby skinny, tiny-hipped Japanese women are toting around these roly-poly baby sumo wrestlers.

The recommended weight gain in America for someone with a normal BMI is around 25-35 pounds.  The recommended weight gain in Japan for someone with a normal BMI is 15-25 pounds, and sometimes even lower depending on the doctor.  I am probably not the best example for this topic since I've gained a grand total of 16 pounds and most of that was packed on in the last four months.  Which is on the lower end of even the more restrictive Japanese scale.  But I'll tell you my experience anyway.  My doctor has never once brought up weight gain of his own volition.  In the beginning I harassed him a little because I wasn't gaining any weight.  He kept telling me I was "fine".  Around the third time I brought it up he finally sighed and said "Well, to be honest it's better if you don't gain a lot of weight.  So really, you're fine.".  And after that I started to gain so I quit asking.  In general, my doctor is a pretty chill kinda guy.  I imagine I would've had to have some drastic weight gain for him to start bothering me about it.  He's asked me if I have questions at every appointment (supposedly Japanese docs don't like questions) and has humored the ones I did have in a kindly manner (although I did get the slight impression that I was being humored).

As for nutritional guidelines he gave me some U.S.-made pamphlets and asked me once if I was taking my folic acid.  That was it.  I struggled to find prenatal vitamins here (I only found one kind in a drugstore which was a tiny $15 packet that I couldn't read) and ended up just ordering American ones from Amazon.

Fourth: registering the pregnancy at city hall.  I don't know anything about all this.  No one ever told us to go register the pregnancy.  I've since heard that you can get some coupons for checkups and whatnot but I don't know about all that either.  I never received any kind of official stamped "confirmation of pregnancy" paper from the doctor either.  I did get the blue "Maternal and Child Health Handbook" (I believe the Japanese name is Boshi Techo).  This is given to all pregnant women here and is used to record all pregnancy details, baby vaccinations and other pertinent medical details until the child is six years old.  I've heard that it's so important that we may even have to present it to get the baby's passport, visa, etc. at the US embassy.  We also have to remember to get the hospital to give us a few English copies of the birth certificate for the embassy.  And we will have to go to our city hall and get the baby an alien registration card soon after she's born.  But again, that's after she's born....hopefully the fact that we didn't register the pregnancy isn't going to throw anyone for a loop.  I'll do a follow up post about that too.

Fifth: One thing that's been really neat about being pregnant here is the amount of information I've received at each prenatal checkup.  I've been kind of shocked to read about checkups in America and how nothing much happens at most of them.  Every single time I've gone in the doctor has done an ultrasound, even the first time to confirm the pregnancy (and this is all covered by our insurance as it is standard practice in Japan).  He has the machines in his office and does them himself.  At around six months he started switching it to 4D video too.  He measured heart rate every time as well as several of the baby's body parts to give me an estimate of the baby's weight.  Plus occasionally pointing out random features like stomach, kidneys, hippocampus etc.  Every single time.  I always get a printed off photo and the whole thing is put onto a CD that I keep.  It's a long CD now, going from a picture of a bean all the way to a little face looking back at us.  For the record, I also had all the standard tests one would have in the US such as glucose, group B strep etc.

And that's about it.  I think I've had a much more "Western" experience than most, largely because I was able to come to Tokyo.  No one has told me to keep my stomach warm or that I needed to eat warm foods, both of which are traditional Japanese admonitions for pregnant women.  At this point people tend to freak out a little if they see me carrying anything heavier than a water bottle, but I think that would happen in the US too.  Japanese women have been amused/slightly horrified when they learn that my husband will take a little time off work and be my main support person.  And some American women have too actually.  I'm not too worried about it but we'll see how it goes. :)

We'll also see how the blog goes from here on out.  I hope to still post regularly over the next several weeks so keep checking back---even if I have to take a few weeks off I'll be back eventually!

August 24, 2012

Basement Bites

Last week I took a walk to a very large department store that's maybe four blocks from our apartment.  If you're wondering why I'm always referencing exactly how many blocks away places are, it's because I spend a lot of my time studying area maps and calculating exactly how far I can get from this apartment without collapsing and/or giving birth on the street.  Any trip I make also has to be worth enduring everyone else on the street giving me the side-eye like I'm a bomb.

Anyways, the store I went to is Matuzakaya.  I knew that once I got there I would only be able to do so much (it's HUGE) so I decided to investigate the basement.  I have read a lot about the basements in these huge department stores and how they are a good place to shop for food.  Yep, food.  Most department store basements here in Tokyo are full of an amazing variety of food vendors.  In fact, if you are on the hunt for exotic and imported foodstuffs you'll often be told to check out the basements of different department stores.

Sure enough, the basement was packed full of  box lunches, gift baskets, pastries, ice cream, weird seafood and more.  There was a small section that was supermarket-like and had some harder-to-find spices and baking supplies but it wasn't anything I haven't seen elsewhere.   I would've considered lunch there but I couldn't find anywhere to sit---seemed like it was all takeout.  I'm not sure if that's always the case in these basements.   So I didn't get anything but I did take some very poor iPhone photos.

these are pastries made to look like
pandas, turtles, etc.  very kawaii (cute), very japanese.

a vendor displaying jellies.  jellies are big here.
there are literally too many variations for me
to even begin to describe.  just....jellies.

the entire floor is food vendors

the most perfect apple pies I've ever seen

a sushi/veggie box?  heaven only knows what half that
mess is.  I do know it would most likely give me heartburn.

exactly how many different varieties of pickled
plums are there?  this many.

onigiri (stuffed rice balls), which aren't bad,
but you have to be careful about
what they're stuffed with

This is just a small selection of what they had, I will say that it was mostly Japanese food.  So I'm not sure if, based on this experience, I personally would recommend a department store basement to a foreigner looking for foods from home.  There are enough "international" supermarkets (check this one out, but be warned it's pricey) that I don't think this would be my first suggestion.  But if you just want to marvel at some Japanese food, it's a pretty good place to do it.

August 17, 2012

Buddhism Around the Block

About a block from our apartment is a Buddhist temple called Reiun-ji.  It occurs to me that some of you might be wondering how I know it's a Buddhist temple versus a Shinto shrine.  Well, they're typically labeled as such on maps and signs but one easy way to tell is that shrines usually have torii at the entrance and temples usually do not.  So if the entrance has a torii, it's most likely (but not always) a shrine.  Temples tend to be slightly more gilded and ornate too.

This particular temple doesn't show up on all of my area maps and doesn't have much of a presence online.  I had to do some digging to find out about it.  It's not quite as happening a place as the Yushima Tenjin shrine (shown a couple of posts back).

Reiun-ji was originally built in 1691 but has been rebuilt a couple of times because of earthquakes and fire.  Apparently, it houses some scrolls and a mandala (a Buddhist painting to really oversimplify it, much more about this specific mandala at the link, second entry) that are national treasures.


the entrance from the inside, notice how there's just a somewhat ornate gate, but no torii
this indicates immediately that it's probably a temple


the temple
nobody was around, which I attribute partially
to subpar landscaping---the shrine around the
corner is a much nicer place to hang out

but it has some pretty spots

August 13, 2012

Nightlife

We've spent some time lately hanging out in Roppongi Hills, which I first blogged about here when we made a brief daytime trip.  It's in a pretty lively (and expensive) part of town with a lot of nightlife.  The Hills is basically a giant indoor/outdoor mall with shops, restaurants and even a museum or two.  The architecture of the place is impressive.  We've been going here because of the Outback Steakhouse (we never went to Outback back home, but we love it here because it tastes like America) and a movie theater where Chad has seen a couple of movies.

Last night while he was at the movies, I perused the English section of a bookstore and spent time curled up in Starbucks.  I also took some night photos of the area.


the skyline from Roppongi Hills, with a rainbowed Tokyo Tower

the Mori Tower (the blue lights continually
run up and down the side)

down Roppongi Street towards Shibuya

looking up into the various towers from within the complex

I think this is part of the Keyakizaka Complex
(this trip we ate Caribbean food way down there on
the bottom level you can barely see)

One of the coolest aspects of coming here is that if you drive (which Chad is comfortable doing now) you can leave your car in an "automated garage".  Basically you pull your car into the garage like normal, but there are just a few parking spots.  You pull your car into one, get out and then your car goes onto a conveyor belt into an elevator and is stored way back in the bowels of the garage until you come back and check it out.  We are big dorks fascinated by this.  We even took video but this is my first attempt at video editing so it's kinda rough.  And you may not be able to play it from an iPad or phone.  I'm sure there's a reason why but I don't know anything about computers anymore. ;)

August 11, 2012

My Favorite Shrine

About two blocks from our apartment is a rather large Shinto shrine with which I was completely unfamiliar.  So a few days ago I walked down there to check it out.  To my surprise, the English sign inside said that it was a shrine to....wait for it.......literature.  On top of that it's adorable with random bull statues and a little river with a bridge and benches in shady spots.

The shrine has a couple of names but "Yushima Tenman-gū" seems to be the most correct.  The sign inside doesn't tell the whole story---apparently its history goes back to 458 AD when it was built to house a spirit of sports and strength.  Much later in the 1300's it was expanded to also house Tenjin, the spirit of learning. So the spirit of sports and the spirit of learning are roomies, ironically enough.

The current buildings seem to be pretty recent and from what I read the shrine is most famous now for its plum (which are sometimes called Japanese apricots) trees.  There's even a small plum tree festival in late winter.  And nowadays students come to the shrine before their exams to pray for good scores---it's convenient because we're really close to Tokyo University.  In fact I gather that this area has always been known for schools, universities, libraries etc.

entrance

sign (click to enlarge)

wood buildings

I liked the lamps


the river

a shrine maiden or "miko" walking through. 
I also saw people who were clearly on their lunch breaks

I'm gonna hit these stairs when I want to start labor

I have no idea what the bull's for
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